Archive for October, 2007

PetLvr.com - [The Blog] Receives Honorable Mention — Posting For Hope: Bloggers Unite Challenge

Sunday, October 28th, 2007

Rich from Copywrite, Ink., in co-operation with BlogCatalog, invited any blogger who participated in this campaign to submit a link and other measurements for consideration in our Blog For Hope Post Competition. Bloggers Unite On 9.27.2007 I spent the day blogging to stop animal abuse and pet cruelty, and if you click the banner you will see the summary of all my posts for that day. Well … I am pleased that my efforts of my 9.27.2007 campaign received an honorable mention! I encourage you to visit the site, read the entries .. and even consider to socially promote the contest results (digg), and to keep the “End of Abuse” campaign awareness in the public eye! (if you think it’s worthy of course)

Here Is A Summary Of The Results

Copywrite, Ink.

* Copywrite, Ink.’s initial Contest and Prize Award post
* Copywrite, Ink.’s Final Contest Results

Highlighted Bloggers — Three Powerful Posts

* First Place — Lisa Wines, O my word
* Second Place — Barbara Sweat (Jane), Jericho Monster
* Third Place — Verna Corbett, Keep It Simple Solutions

Honorable Mentions — Five More Touching Posts

* Honorable Mention - PETLVR! < =====
* Honorable Mention - The NAFASG Team
*
Honorable Mention - CreativeBlogger
* Honorable Mention - Cynthia Newcomer Daniel
* Honorable Mention - Saphyre Rose

* See a lot of posts summarized at Topix

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Keep Your Cat Looking Great

Saturday, October 27th, 2007

Cats do not like to be dirty. Most cats spend a good part of their day licking their paws and face to stay clean and tidy. However, despite this, few cat owners think about grooming their cats.

However, grooming a cat is very important. This process helps remove loose hair from your cat’s body. Without brushing, a lot of this hair would have ended up in your cat’s stomach. Since hair is not easily digestible, it often forms hairballs. While cats can sometimes cough up hairballs, they can clog the intestinal tract, as well. In addition, grooming can remove dirt and debris from your cat’s coat. It is also a great opportunity to check for fleas and ticks.

If you thought your cat would hate to be groomed, you may be surprised at how much he actually enjoys the experience. Of course, it is much easier to accustom your cat to brushes and combs when he is still a young kitten. Gently brush or comb over your kitten’s coat, following the grain of the fur from his neck to his tail. If he begins to grow irritable, stop grooming him and play with him for a few minutes until he is relaxed. Do not groom his face or paws with the brush or comb, as most cats do not like this.

For cats who do not like to be brushed, you can try a different grooming tool, the grooming glove. While your cat is happily enjoying a nice, luxurious kitty massage, the glove is working to remove loose hair and debris, just as a brush would do. Your cat should not mind having his face groomed with a glove, but he may still object to having his paws groomed.

While you are brushing your cat’s coat, be sure you take the time to check out his eyes and ears. His eyes should be clear and bright, without matter in their corners. His ears should be clean and pink. Excess dirt in a cat’s ears can be a sign of ear mites. These mites can actually cause the ears to shrivel up and your cat can lose his hearing, so be sure to take your little guy to the veterinarian if you suspect mites.

Next, if your cat is not de-clawed, you should use pet nail clippers to remove the hooks on the ends of his claws. If these hooks snag on things and get caught, it can be painful both to your cat and your possessions. You should also check his teeth to be sure there is no tartar buildup. Since teeth problems can lead to serious health conditions, you may want to brush your cat’s teeth once a day with a finger tip brush and pet toothpaste.

Finally, if you have a long haired cat and his coat has become matted, you may need to have him shaved. Most cats need to be sedated since they will not tolerate the animal clippers, so you may have to take your cat to the veterinarian to be groomed. Being shaved is a stressful experience for your cat, so it is best to avoid this process by keeping his coat tangle free.

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Chase praying

Friday, October 26th, 2007


Chase praying, originally uploaded by still_exploring2009.

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The Papillon pose

Friday, October 26th, 2007


The Papillon pose, originally uploaded by slightlypale.

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Chase in the office chair

Friday, October 26th, 2007

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Cody the Barbarian

Friday, October 26th, 2007


Cody the Barbarian, originally uploaded by jacksonpe.

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Making Your Own Rabbit Cage

Friday, October 26th, 2007

Many people find large, commercial rabbit cages beyond their budget. A rabbit benefits from a cage that is at least six times his body area, apart from the space required for a litter box. For most, that means something at least 2 feet by 3 feet, plus space for the box. But that’s the minimum. To provide your rabbit with room to move around, larger is better.

While commercial rabbit cages are often outstanding - large, innovative in design and solidly made - they can burden the pocketbook. For those who have a little do-it-yourself skill and a willingness to try, making a rabbit cage isn’t too difficult.

First, what not to do. Many rabbit cages, even commercial ones, use a wire floor. That may help you clean up, but it’s harmful to the rabbit. Even a fairly fine mesh will stress the rabbit’s hocks and pads. Eventually, sores develop that are both painful and unhealthy. They take a long time to heal.

Avoid that problem by using a solid floor. Properly made with the right materials it provides an easy to clean surface that is much better for your rabbit. One way to accomplish that is to select a sturdy piece of plywood at least 1/2 inch thick as a base. To make it easy to clean and more comfortable for the rabbit, it can be covered with a plastic or similar sheet.

That covering can be a strip of simple linoleum flooring, available at the home supply store for a few dollars at most. Tacking it onto the plywood takes only a few minutes and it will last for years. Alternative designs use a large, shallow, rectangular container turned upside down and nailed to the plywood. Nailing is sometimes preferable to gluing, but the latter can be used, too.

The bottom of the platform can be made safe for carpets and easy to move by tacking or gluing some rubber or plastic ‘feet’ on it. The type is easy to find at any home supply store. The sort that are used to cushion kitchen cabinets, for example, make excellent pads.

Making the upper portion of the cage requires only a modestly greater effort. You can easily construct a frame with 1 by 4’s or 2 by 4’s, though the latter make the cage much heavier. Or, you can drill some small holes into the flooring and insert 1/4-1/2 inch wooden dowels with a bit of glue on the ends. The frame will be stronger if there are some L-braces at the top and bottom.

Once the frame is in place and solid, finishing the cage is simple. Though plastic mesh fencing is inexpensive it’s not recommended, since rabbits will chew through it once they get the idea. And since they chew on everything, they will sooner or later. Instead, use some ordinary chicken wire mesh. But make sure after you wrap it around the frame and trim to size that there are no sharp points anywhere. Rabbits won’t tend to chew the chicken wire, but even coming close to it can cause a puncture if it’s improperly installed.

To make a second floor and a ramp is a good idea and simple to do. Use the same kind of floor as the base and simply support it with dowels or short 1 by 4’s secured with L-braces. Then cut a notch in the second floor and nail a ramp made of plywood between the two levels.

To provide variety, you can make the cage an L-shape that holds the litter box in the shorter leg. Octagons are another popular variation. Even creating a maze isn’t very difficult. That will keep your rabbit busy and mentally stimulated, which will keep him out of mischief.

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Housebreaking Your Puppy

Friday, October 26th, 2007

No training is more basic for pet owners than that first important lesson: Do it outside!

Teaching your pet to eliminate outside the home, not in it, usually starts between six and eight weeks of age. Dogs as young as four weeks have been started on the program, but at that age few have the muscular control to succeed.

Like any dog training regimen, trainer patience is as important as the dog’s temperament. ‘Sit’, ’stay’ and other behaviors can often be learned in a few days. ‘Potty’ training typically takes weeks - sometimes as short as two, often a month or more.

As with other learned behaviors, it helps to watch for signs of the desired actions and enforce and direct them with a voice command followed by praise. In this case that technique works even more to the trainer’s advantage, since all dogs will naturally eliminate. The trick is to get them to do it when and where you want!

Watch for circling or squatting, then pick up the pup, say ‘outside’ and dash outside. The puppy may circle some more, but will often squat immediately. As it begins, say ‘Go potty’ (or some other unique phrase) in a clear, firm (but not angry) voice. Wait until it’s finished and praise lavishly.

You won’t always be able to catch the puppy about to begin, but don’t become angry or impatient when the dog eliminates indoors. It takes time for the dog to learn to tell you it’s time to ‘go outside’. It also takes time for the muscles needed to control bladder and bowels to develop.

Young dogs need to eliminate every 2-3 hours, on average. If you haven’t spotted pre-elimination behavior within that time, take the dog outside anyway. Issue the command ‘Go potty’ and wait. At first, usually, the dog will have no clue what you want.

Again, even when outside, it helps to wait and watch for the desired behavior then issue the command. That helps the dog associate the command with the behavior. If the dog hasn’t gone after a few minutes and a few ‘Go potty’ commands, take it back inside for an hour. Of course, if you spot the pre-elimination behavior in less time, go outside again immediately.

Dogs have a surprising ability to quickly learn what their ‘alpha’ (the leader of the pack) wants. This is almost always accomplished by associating a verbal command with behavior, followed by praise. Punishment is usually counter-productive, and nowhere more so than in waste elimination training. Never rub a dog’s nose in waste.

Paper and/or crate training is preferred by some. A pup can be trained to go on a newspaper, or on one of the chemically treated pads designed for the purpose. Some small breeds that live all day in the home may not need to go outside at all.

The technique has a couple of downsides however. Unlike cats, dogs will rarely go in a perfumed litter box. Newspapers (even with the top layer removed after the dog goes) will eventually create an unpleasant smell in the house.

Also, long before the odor becomes unattractive to humans, dogs can smell their own distinctive aroma. They don’t find it unattractive - quite the opposite. And that’s the problem.

Dogs that are paper trained will often prefer to eliminate indoors. Sometimes they’ll miss the paper by only an inch, creating a mess to clean up.

Once the odor is in the carpet, the dog will often seek that spot out as its proper ‘place to go’. This makes training the dog to eliminate outside even more difficult. Best to suffer a few accidents than to create a hard-to-overcome habit.

Patience, praise and consistency are the keys to any dog training. Elimination training is the first test for you and your dog.

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Product Spotlight - Healthy Treats

Friday, October 26th, 2007



Formulated by Dr. Jane Bicks, DVM. “If you are going to give treats to your dog, why not choose an all-natural alternative with nutrients that support a healthy immune system. Among other nutrients, each Antioxidant Bar contains 10 I.U.’s of vitamin E, widely recognized as an important antioxidant source. Your dog deserves the best.”

Dogs just can’t resist the delicious peanut butter and cheese in Antioxidant Health Bars. Each bar is supremely satisfying and packed with great nutrition…

Stabilized Rice Bran
A whole food that has over 70 phytonutrients and adds significantly to the overall antioxidant value of each bar.

Flax Seed Meal and Oil
One of the richest sources of alpha-linoleic acid, one of the types of fatty acids in the omega-3 family, which are considered super-unsaturated fats.

Cranberries
A whole food high in natural antioxidants that support healthy urinary tract functioning.

Whole Food Antioxidants
The natural nutritional goodness of apples, carrots and spinach.

• Proudly made in the USA with all-natural, human-quality American ingredients.
• Contains no corn, wheat, wheat gluten, soy or soy gluten.
• No chemical preservatives, artificial colors or artificial flavors.

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Keep Your Pet Safe This Halloween! Be Careful

Thursday, October 25th, 2007
Goofy's

Please, don't be stupid with your pet's costumes. Be thoughtful of your pet, as was this dog owner.

Halloween is a fun event to many of us, but it can be stressful and dangerous to our beloved pets. Here are some tips to keep your dogs safe and happy this time of the year.





New research reveals that pure bred dogs may help scientists
understand the molecular basis for canine and human diseases. See Page 2

Absolutely no human Halloween treats for your dogs, even if they do tricks! Halloween treats, especially chocolates are extremely toxic to your dogs. The candy wrappers are also dangerous as they can get stuck in your dog’s digestive tract. Be sure to keep the candy bowl out of your dog’s reach.

  • If you are having a party, be sure to remind your guests (especially small children) not to give any candies to your dog. Also be sure to keep all food items out of your dog's reach. It may be a good idea to separate your dog from your guests.

  • Do not leave a lit pumpkin or candles where they can be knocked over by your dog. Not only they can start a fire, but also burn your dog.

  • Keep the decorations out of your dog's reach. Chewed pieces can be a choking hazard and if ingested, they can cause intestinal blockage. Electrical cords for lit decorations can be extremely dangerous as they can cause electrical shock when chewed.

  • Wearing a pet costume can be stressful and uncomfortable to many dogs. Avoid dressing up your dog unless you are sure that your dog enjoys it. Keep an eye on your dog while in his/her costume for any signs of discomfort.

  • Constant stream of trick-or-treaters may cause stress on your dog. Keep your dog away from the door. This will also prevent your dog from dashing out the door.

  • Make sure your dog is wearing a proper identification. If your dog dashes out the door and becomes lost, he/she will have a far greater chance of coming home safely.

  • Avoid leaving your dogs outside during the Halloween season. There are many stories involving people stealing pets in order to torture them on Halloween night.

Written by Nikki Walters. Visit us at http://www.dog-pawlor.com for more usuful dog care tips.

Guest Article Courtesy Ezine


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