Archive for July, 2007

WHS Ad - July 31, 2007 - Please Adopt Me!

Tuesday, July 31st, 2007

Mischief, 141862

141862-mischief.JPG
Mischief is a fantastic medium haired tabby. She was brought to us after her owner took ill. Mischief can be a bit energetic, so we think she would do best with older children. She loves to cuddle and goes absolutely crazy for anything with a bell!!! Once you meet her she’ll steal your heart! This fancy feline’s $79.00 adoption fee includes her spay, vet exam, microchip, pet insurance & more!

William, 138208

138208-william.JPG
William is an energetic one and half year old Labrador Retriever mix. He is a very smart boy and eager to learn, he just needs someone to teach him! William loves to play with his ball, and will lean into you to be petted. He can be a bit shy, so new people and situations should be introduced slowly. William would do best with children 10 and up. Any small animals or cats in his new home should be introduced slowly. This fantastic dog’s $179.00 adoption fee includes neuter, microchip, vaccine, pet insurance & more!

If you would like to adopt one of these pets, please contact:

Reception
The Winnipeg Humane Society
5 Kent Street
Winnipeg, MB R2L 1X3
T: 204.982.2021
F: 204.663.9401
Email: reception@humanesociety.mb.ca

www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca

Where every adoptable dog finds a home and cats get a second chance at life!

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The 3 Types of Dog Trainers

Tuesday, July 31st, 2007

By Patrick & Katie Moran

There are three basic types of dog trainers. I learned about these three types by reading about a dog trainer named Ed Frawley. He’s got a book call “Philosophy on Dog Training”. After reading his book, I started watching other people interact with their dog.

I was once a musher and in the world of dog sledding, these philosophies are very much applicable especially when it comes to promoting a sound family pack structure. As you read on, hopefully you will be able to place yourself in one of those three categories.

The Briber and The Beggar

This is the group of people who beg or bribe their dogs into doing something by offering a toy or a reward. This is not to say that I’ve never used food or toys in training but I also used distraction and corrections to get my point across. Generally, the people in this category use neither. It’s funny how all of the mega pet stores “enable” this type of unproductive training because the big stores wouldn’t want to rock the boat. We must all be politically correct now!

The problem is that the dog will eventually realize what is going on and choose not to do what you have asked them to do. They will think the reward is not worth the effort. These dogs will end up being pushy, antisocial and aggressive animals. Those are the dogs you’ll end up seeing at your local animal shelters. The dog is essentially being held responsible for ineffective training.

The Intimidator

These people are the old school types. That’s it… Jerk on that leash buddy! Ever see a movie where the North American dog handler speaks in German to give commands to his dog? That’s ridiculously old school as well. These trainers intimidate or force the dog to do what they want.

They’ll put a choke collar on a dog and force it to do everything. Again, don’t get me wrong. I’ve used choke collars before but only in specific instances like teaching leash respectability. Choke collars are a training tool and not an everyday control appendage. Many professional trainers will use intimidation tactics because time is money and with enough force a dog will do almost anything.

The issue with the intimidators is that the dogs seldom like their handlers and are in fact usually afraid of them. These dogs will tuck their tails in between their legs or just drop to the ground and be submissive when asked to do something. You can tell who these trainers are. Just look at their dog’s behavior. The dog is seldom happy when near their trainer because they never know when the piano is going to drop on their heads.

Meet me in the middle

You should strive to be in the middle but always be prepared to be a “Briber” or an “Intimidator” depending on what the dog requires at the time. Keep in mind that those are both extremes and that your goal is to find the perfect balance between the two.

This third category uses food, toys or praise to lead the dog through a training phase. The dog learns commands such as COME and STAY. Once the dog learns a command then the trainer ups the ante by throwing distractions to the program. If the dog is disobedient then the dog should realize very early into the program that it will be corrected and or disciplined.

Use positive reinforcement when the dog does correctly by giving lots of praise and treats but be ready to turn the screws a little when the dog is not paying attention. That’s where you should be.

Who is Alpha anyway?

It should be you, the trainer. Dogs are pack animals. They can love you but not respect you at all. Most pet owners fail to realize that the driving force in a dog’s life is to preserve harmony in the pack structure. There is a hierarchy and guess what… You are supposed to be at the top. It is very important to establish a sound family pack environment. That philosophy is 75% of having a harmonious co-existence with your dog. The other 25% is education, patience and a good training regimen.

If your dog shows disrespect, you should increase pressure on your dog. This means you will work the dog harder until the dog shows you the respect that an Alpha should have. Alpha is supposed to be fair, firm and consistent.

Which category to you belong to?

Patrick & Katie Moran
Pet Food & Supplements
www.monstergiftstore.com

Patrick and Katie have been around dogs all their lives. Patrick is an ex-musher from Canada who has had to turn dogs into four-legged athletes. Katie has always lived surrounded by 4 or more dogs at a time.

Article Source: EzineArticles.com/?expert=Patrick_|_Katie_Moran

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How to Stop Your Cat from Excessive Crying

Monday, July 30th, 2007

By Thomas Allen

Do you want to stop your cat from crying all the time? Often times cats will cry or “meow” excessively and this can become a problem for many pet owners. There can be several reasons why your cat is crying excessively but most often the owner accidentally encourages the behavior. Cats will discover that crying gets a certain reaction from their owners and will meow in order to get that specific reaction. If you want your cat to stop meowing, here are a few things to keep in mind.

Sometimes crying is a sign of discomfort and your cat might be expressing symptoms of pain. Constant crying can also be from sexual tension if your cat is not spayed or neutered. Crying may also be a response to a dramatic change in an environment; unreasonable crying can be a reaction to this change.

One common reason that cats meow excessively is because they are trying to get their owners to do something for them. If this is the case, you must consider the last action you performed for your meowing cat. Did you feed them? Did you clean out their litter box? What was it that you did to reward their meowing?

The key is to know whether you did something for your cat and if your cat is trying to get you to repeat the action. If you want your cat to stop crying, you need to stop rewarding them when they cry. If you believe that their meowing is a result of a reward that you provided, consider ignoring their incessant crying.

When your cat stops crying, this is when you should perform the behavior that you normally would. For example, if you feed your cat when they are meowing, wait till they stop before you feed them. This should eventually teach them that meowing is not what is getting them the reward of food.

If your cat is waking you up early in the morning, try keeping them in another part of the house where their meowing won’t disturb you. You should try however to feed them at the same time of day since cats like routine. Make sure the feeding schedule is on your own terms and not your cats. Cats will often want to be fed earlier and earlier each morning and before you know it, your cat will be waking you up at 4 am!

Whatever your cat’s reason for excessive crying, you are likely reading this article because you want it to stop. Consider whether or not your cat is crying because they are demanding something that they want. If this is the case, make sure you do not reward their demands and you will eventually stop your cat from excessive crying.

Wait! Don’t give up on your cat! A well planned behavior program may be all your kitty needs. Go here for simple tips to help you get your feline inline!

Article Source: EzineArticles.com/?expert=Thomas_Allen

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Sugar Glider Video

Monday, July 30th, 2007

Yesterday, our friends invited us over to their “pool party”. I was suprised how domesticed the family of chipmunks that live within her cracks of her sidewalks were! Chipmunks love to collect peanuts in their pouches and “Itchy” (the friendliest baby of the family) seemed to max out at 14 full peanuts in his cheeks, and 5 shelled peanuts before scooting away to hide his prized mouthful!

Now .. our friends have agreed to do an interview and I will be going back to take some pictures and will post that around mid-August here in [The Blog]. In the meantime, I was searching YouTube for some neat chipmunk videos.

However, the best thing (or cutest thing?) that I could find on YouTube was the following information about Sugar Gliders … Not quite the same thing, but, entertaining - at least, anyway!

Enjoy.

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IOSF - International Otter Survival Fund - Holidays

Monday, July 30th, 2007


Only 56 people in 2007 can experience the wonderful wildlife of the Hebrides with Paul and Grace Yoxon. Will you be one of these? Many of you have been with us before and the trips therefore need no introduction, but for those of you who are thinking of joining us for the first time we would like to tell you a little of what to expect.

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Trotternish , Isle of Skye

These trips are designed to suit almost everyone. Except those, that is, who are after a hectic night-life and a lot of shopping excursions! But if you are after a holiday which will introduce you to some beautiful areas, wonderful wildlife and a sense of appreciation of being a part of our environment and the responsibility that comes with that, then you will find a trip to suit you here. Remember all profits from your holiday will put into PRACTICAL conservation measures to protect the species you are coming to see.

Most people who come to the Hebrides are hoping for a glimpse of an otter, and whilst we can never promise that, if you have plenty of patience your chances are good. We not only have a good population of otters here but they are active during the day rather than being nocturnal – this is a great advantage, especially during the long daylight hours of summer.

To give you a hint of what might lie in store, let me tell you just some of the species which we encountered in our Hebridean trips during 2006: Otters (of course!), seals (both grey and common), eagles (golden and white-tailed sea eagle), seabirds (black guillemots, puffins, razorbills, kittiwakes), skuas (great and Arctic), deer (roe and red), minke whales, dolphins, porpoises, basking sharks (many more than in previous years), alpine flowers (mossy saxifrage, moss campion, etc), orchids (butterfly, fragrant, spotted, etc). The list is endless!

You can choose a holiday which teaches you to become an Otter Detective – learn how to identify secondary signs (spraints, washing pools, tracks, etc) so that you can explore for yourself when you go back home.

You may fancy putting these skills to good use by joining us for the Otter Survey of Isle of North Uist on the Outer Hebrides.

Or alternatively you may be interested in not just the wildlife but also a bit of the geology, history and archaeology of Skye and its neighbouring island of Raasay – then “Wildlife and Heritage” is for you.

So choose your destination and promise yourself a really special and unforgettable holiday.
Contact us for a Factfile or click on the holiday of your choice in the programme below to read it on-line.

Creating Dog Friendly Yards

Monday, July 30th, 2007

By Caroline Bourke

People who love gardening are often at a loss as to how to maintain pet friendly yards. Fortunately, with a little thought and compromise, it is not a difficult task to achieve. Pets and their owners can both enjoy their pet friendly yards with no major mishap to the pets or the gardens.

One of the first things that are needed in pet friendly yards is a high and sturdy fence all around. This will not only prevent pets from running out, it will deter stray dogs from coming in. The fence should be equipped with wire meshing at the edges to block off any gaps. Do not grow plants near the fence, as dogs like to establish their territorial rights. This may lead to unsightly dog paths being created here. Dogs need places to run around, so pet friendly yards should have stone paved areas or paths.

Take care not to leave any area with loose mud in the garden- it is an invitation to start digging! It may be a good idea to fence off an area that is exclusively for the dog to romp around. A dog house is also essential to protect the pets from excessive heat or wind. It should not be too close to the outer fence as dogs can climb on the house and jump out. The dogs should also have a bath room area that they are trained to use, to prevent the lawn from being messed up. Make sure there is water available for them to drink.

What to Grow In Pet Friendly Yards

Grass and plans cannot tolerate the nitrates in dog urine, so train them to keep off the grass. Some varieties of grass are sturdier than others, such as Bermuda grass and can with stand treading. Clover is perhaps the ideal choice, as it does not stain the way grass does after being subjected to dog urine. Delicate plants can be protected with wooden picket fences or wire cages around them. This prevents dog urine from reaching their trunks and roots, and damaging them. While there are numerous plants to choose from to grow in gardens, pet friendly yards should not have poisonous plants. Check out lists of plants that are suitable to have around with pets before planning the garden.

Pet friendly yards should have secure places for storing herbicides and other chemicals. Pets should be allowed to play only after 24 hours of fertilizing a yard. It is also a good idea to have pet toys and chews to keep them entertained while they are out.

Caroline Bourke is a full time beauty therapist in Florida. Check out these great Dogs Advice resources and articles or the more general Pets advice.

Article Source: EzineArticles.com/?expert=Caroline_Bourke

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How to Treat and Remove Matted Fur Clumps From Your Cat or Dog

Sunday, July 29th, 2007

By Alex Page

Matted fur - it happens to most dogs or cats occasionally. When you notice matted fur on your dog or cat, it’s very important to remove the matted fur as soon as possible. Not only is it ugly, but it can become very uncomfortable for your pet causing him to pinch and pull at it. Of course, this can just make matters worse.

So, what causes matts and how do you treat matted fur?
There are several things which can cause matting, but the most common cause is lack of grooming. If you haven’t brushed your cat or dong for a while, shame on you. Your pet can’t do it himself. He’s totally dependent on you to take care of him. If you can’t do it regularly, please take your pet to a groomer regularly.

Fleas can also cause matting. They can create a tangled mess in your pets fur. Check and treat your pet for fleas regularly.

Some cats and dogs have 2 coats of fur which shed and need to be brushed out. This is a natural process and it is important to brush out the undercoat when your pet is shedding.

So how do you de-matt your pet’s fur? Well, let’s get this one out of the way first. You can always have your pet shaved and let him start all over. Sometimes it’s the best thing. In the right weather, a fresh shave feels great to your pet. It might scare you at first glance, but it always grows back. However, many people are shocked at the thought of shaving their little beauty, so here’s how you can take care of matted hair on your own.

The most important thing to remember when de-matting your pet is this: be patient. Bathing your pet before trying to remove the matts can often make the matts worse. Removing matts from your cat or dog is usually not a quick process, so be patient. My youngest yorkie matted up over the course of 2 weeks one time because I slacked on grooming, and it took me 3 weeks to remove the matts.

Here are the tools you’ll need to remove matts from your dog or cat:
* A steel comb
* A slicker brush
* A matt splitter

First, let your pet get into a comfortable position… on your lap, on the floor, on the sofa, or wherever he can get comfortable. You don’t want to wrestle your pet during this. If your pet is matted in several places, start de-matting in the places where your pet is most comfortable lying down. In other words, let your pet get comfortable, then work with the places which have easiest access. Also, do your best to control the cat or dog’s head. Control the head… control the pet.

Next begin to work on the matts with the steel comb. Be sure to brush with the grain of the fur. Don’t pull so hard that it hurts your dog. Just for an experiment, grab a small piece of hair on the back of your own head. Pull down, then pull up. Which one hurt more? Up, right? Keep that in mind when you’re brushing your pet. Use the steel comb to slowly break up the clumps.

Try to pull the matted clumps apart into small sections with your hands. The matts are easier to remove if they are smaller, and this will cut down on the amount of fur your pet loses. You may need to carefully cut into the matt with scissors to divide it up. Obviously, don’t get too close to the skin. A cut pet is an unhappy pet. An unhappy pet is more difficult to groom.

As the matts begin to break up, use the slicker brush to remove the tangles. Start at the end of the fur and work your way closer to the skin as the matts loosen up. If you try to start at the base of the fur, next to the skin, you’ll just end up compressing the matts even tighter.

If your pet is going to require numerous grooming sessions to remove the matts, that’s ok. The end results will be rewarding for both you and your pet. Take your time. Be patient. help your dog or cat to remain calm and comfortable. If you’re sitting down to watch TV or a movie, that would be a great time to work on the matts.

After all the matts are removed, plan on regular grooming times for your cat or dog. Keep the comb or brush in a noticeable spot to remind you about maintaining your pet’s fur. It much easier to brush your pet a few minutes each day than it is to spend hours fighting to remove matted fur.

Good luck!

Alex Page has been a happy pet owner for nearly 30 years. He enjoys helping pets and pet owners have the best relationship possible. He is currently a key article contributer to 123-pet.com a site dedicated to discussing all things about pets.

View more of Alex Page’s articles at 123-pet.com

Article Source: EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alex_Page

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Sparky and his birthday hat

Saturday, July 28th, 2007

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Sparky and his birthday hat, originally uploaded by Jez and Brooke.

Happy Birthday!

Saturday, July 28th, 2007

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Happy Birthday!, originally uploaded by Macky’s hat.

It’s good to be the Queen!

Saturday, July 28th, 2007

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It’s good to be the Queen!, originally uploaded by Jen-n-G.


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