Archive for June, 2007

WHS Ad - June 26, 2007 - Please Adopt Me!

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007
Saving just one dog won’t change the world…
but it surely will change the world for that one dog.

Foxy, 127976


Foxy is a sweet one year old female Husky/Labrador Retriever mix. She has a previous injury to her leg, but that does not stop her from getting around! She seems to like other dogs, but does need to have some down time to rest her leg. She is very energetic, and loves attention. Despite her leg, Foxy loves to run so would do best with home with a fence. Foxy should go to a home with children 10 years and up, so she can keep up with them! $159.00 adoption fee includes spay, microchip, vaccine, pet insurance & more!

Vinny, 139664


Vinny is a very affectionate 5 year old male cat. He loves to be petted and is just waiting for a nice lap to curl up on in his new home! He has previously got along well with children and other cats. Vinny requires a diet of 50% wet cat food and 50% good quality dry food to help keep his urine healthy! This adorable feline is waiting for adoption! $48.06 adoption fee includes his neuter, vet exam, microchip, pet insurance & more!

If you would like to adopt one of these pets, please contact:

Chantal Young
Adoption Coordinator
204.982.3558

The Winnipeg Humane Society
5 Kent Street
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
R2L 1X3
204.982.2021

Email: chantaly@humanesociety.mb.ca

www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca

Where every adoptable dog finds a home and cats get a second chance at life!

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Before You Take Your Dog Bicycling - Read This

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007

I want to share this. I read it on “Dogster” of which I am a member :) … Go figure eh, three dogs and a member of Dogster!

Here Is My Dogster Page: http://www.dogster.com/dogs/162935

Q: Can’t wait to get out on your bike with your best pal? What are some things to keep in mind and how far is safe to ride?
A: Exercise is great for both of you! Obviously, the age, health and breed of your pet are key factors in how far you will be able to safely ride. The best thing to do is start out slowly (two to five miles) and build up distance as the weeks go on. Remember to pack doggie treats and water. Just like us humans, dogs need to get in shape and build up stamina. One thing, in particular, to look out for are your pup’s paws, which may get worn when hitting the concrete, especially at the beginning. Keep an eye on Spot the next day to see if he’s limping or tired, or the paws are pinkish in hue. If so, you probably went too far–or too fast. With regular rides, you could be doing 15 or 20 miles by summer’s end. Ruff riders, indeed!

PLEASE TAKE CARE OF THE WELLBEING OF YOUR DOG - DO NOT RUN HIM TO DEATH!!!


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How to Photograph Your Horse

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007

By Ron Petracek

A good photograph portrays your horse in his best possible light. A bad photograph, by contrast, draws attention to every fault, no matter how insignificant, and sometimes even exaggerates those faults!

Whether you are advertising your horse because he is for sale or advertising his recent show ring accomplishments, knowing how to photograph your horse correctly is a skill you must develop. If you derive income from your horses getting good photographs of them to put in front of the public is absolutely integral!

So, how do you take good photographs of your horse? Well, the first thing you should know is that it takes a little bit of practice. You shouldn’t expect to load your camera, take a few rolls, and be Robert Vavra over night! However, if you follow the following tips you’ll be shooting great pics of your horse in no time.

• Film matters! That’s right, use good-quality film such as Kodak or Fuji, and you’ll see it really does make a difference. If you are using a 35 mm format opt for 200 ASA. Going digital? The higher the pixels the better.

• Pick the right day. A bright day is good, but pick a day that isn’t too sunny. Too much sun will create dark shadows, and can be particularly problematic if you are shooting a dark horse. If you have no choice but to shoot on a sunny day, use a flash to eliminate shadows. It sounds counterintuitive, but it really does work!

• Prepare your horse. Now I know you are not going to stand him up hairy and dirty, but in addition to good grooming you might want to take some extra steps to ensure your horse looks his best. If appropriate to the discipline in which he participates, braid his mane and oil his hooves. Make sure his coat and his tail are shiny and well-brushed.

• Pick a uncluttered background. A natural background such as a field, woodland, or pasture is a good choice. The barnyard or driveway, no matter how neat and clean, is not a great choice because of the stuff that is bound to be in the background. You want the viewer to be wowed by your horse, not your new Cadillac Escalade. Look at the details before you click! Sounds crazy, but how many amateur photographs have you seen that depict horses with pitchforks growing out of their heads? As improbably as it sounds, I bet at least one, right? It bears repeating—check the background!

• Make sure tack is clean. If you photograph your horse in his bridle or saddle, make sure that both have been recently scrubbed. For that matter, anything your horse wears in a photo should be squeaky clean. That goes for the rider and handler, too!

• Enlist the help of a knowledgeable horse person. You can’t take pictures and position the horse too, so you’ll need some help. It’s best if the person who helps you knows how to pose a horse to his best advantage.

• The angle and position of the horse are key. For a full body shot, stand the horse with both front legs together and one hind leg slightly behind the other. To minimize parts looking too large or too small, focus on the middle of the horse, and do not shoot from too high or too low. Make sure the horse looks alert with bright eyes and both ears forward. Horse not cooperating? Have a friend make some noise (outside the frame, of course!) to get your horse’s attention.

• Get the right action. If you are taking shots of your horse in action, you’ll want to capture his power and impulsion. If your horse is trotting or cantering, try to capture him with his leading leg extended.

• Stay away from the front and rear. Photos from the side come out much nicer than photos taken head on or from the rear, which almost always accentuate unwanted things and make them look, well, HUGE!

• Keep clicking! While skill is most certainly involved, some of the best horse photographs are lucky. That’s right. Don’t wait for the perfect moment. Just keep clicking and you are sure to get a shot that shows your horse at his best!

Ron Petracek - Idaho Raised Horseman, Equine Article Directory HorseChitChat.com Looking for more equine information or services? Try our vast network Click here => www.equinefieds.com/network.php

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Becareful When You First Take Your Dog Out Bicycling

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007

I want to share this. I read it on "Dogster" of which I am a member :)... Go figure eh, three dogs and a member of Dogster!

My Dogster Site: http://www.dogster.com/dogs/162935

Q: Can't wait to get out on your bike with your best pal? What are some things to keep in mind and how far is safe to ride?
A: Exercise is great for both of you! Obviously, the age, health and breed of your pet are key factors in how far you will be able to safely ride. The best thing to do is start out slowly (two to five miles) and build up distance as the weeks go on. Remember to pack doggie treats and water. Just like us humans, dogs need to get in shape and build up stamina. One thing, in particular, to look out for are your pup's paws, which may get worn when hitting the concrete, especially at the beginning. Keep an eye on Spot the next day to see if he's limping or tired, or the paws are pinkish in hue. If so, you probably went too far--or too fast. With regular rides, you could be doing 15 or 20 miles by summer's end. Ruff riders, indeed!

Care of Foals

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007

By Roger Bourdon

Its so exciting isn’t it having a new foal around. I just love them, they are so gorgeous to look at and so vulnerable, that I find them completely adorable! OK, so that’s enough of my sensitive side, lets get on with some content.

First off lets say that the foal has been born healthy – it’s the care of the foal and therefore its mother, in its first few weeks that I’m going to cover here (I may later cover the period immediately after the birth and how you check that the baby is healthy, but I will have to do some more research for that).

Just like any new baby, they will need some extra care if they are to start life fit and healthy. Now is the time to really show that you care, and it starts straight off, in fact about 10 hours after the birth. This is when you need to start teaching the foal to be handled or teaching ‘restraint’ as some people call it. Don’t confuse this with ‘imprinting’. This comes later and after the foal and mare have done their natural imprinting.

Restraint means the foal must stand still, be rubbed all over, and have its feet pick up, held, touched and cleaned. Do not let the foal decide when you are done with his feet. Not teaching a foal to have his feet handled is the first sign of neglect, and all you are doing is making life hard for both you and the foal. This doesn’t have to be a big deal, and with such a cute creature it should be a pleasure so persevere with it and all things pertaining to getting the foal socialized and familiar with humans and their surroundings. You can even plan on having the feet rasped lightly about every five days—pay your horse shower to do it, or learn to do it yourself, but get it done…not caring for a foal’s feet is on-going neglect. While you are working on the foal’s feet, the foal is going to try to get away…this is when you teach restraint.

The next thing I’d like to point out is that keeping a foal in a box stall or small pen for hours, days and weeks is not the right thing to do. As soon as the foal can get up and down easily—just a few hours after birth—he and mom should be in the biggest area you can find where they can and will exercise and move around freely. Get them out where they run and play and use those new muscles, tendons and bones, as that’s what will start the foal off developing well.

After they’ve been out all day you can bring them into the barn or stable for the night. This is where you continue restraint training. The mare and foal should be haltered and led to the barn. That doesn’t mean allowing the foal to run along all over the place, it means the foal learns to be lead properly and respect the handler. Within five days if the foal is haltered and taken out in the morning and haltered and led back at night, he’ll be a perfect little soldier, marching along beside you.

Now keep it up, the trimming of the feet, the restraint training, the leading properly—that’s a show of love and caring and protection. This foal isn’t going to suffer the fear, battles and abuses that so many foals will endure when someone decides they “have to learn it all now” so you are doing them a great kindness.

Next we’ll look at feeding the foal.

For the first three months the mare’s milk is usually enough to provide the foal with the best growth rate but it then declines to a level that does not provide what the foal needs. The extra nutrients required by the foal to continue their optimum growth rate from three months to weaning (which is normally four to six months) can be provided by creep feeding. Creep feeding also helps prevent developmental orthopedic disease or DOD by providing a balanced diet. You should begin creep feeding a foal around one month old. Until three weeks of age the digestive system of the foal doesn’t have enough enzymes in sufficient quantity to digest the sugars and starches that are present in horse feed. So until this time the foal should only be given a milk-based diet.

However there are some who would say that they should be exposed to hay or pasture straight off, so that they can get used to it. If they are turned out in a field during the day then the foal will undoubtedly graze a little but he’ll still rely on mum’s milk. I personally think that they should have access to grass or hay right from the start as it gets them used to it and reduces the stress they get when being weaned. But a word of warning. Don’t overfeed a foal – don’t give pellets or concentrated feeds. Your foal should be on the thin side, and not overfed and fat. A fat foal can get joint problems in later life.

Creep feeding foals helps them to cope better with the weaning stress. These foals will also turn out to be larger and heavier at the same age than foals that are not creep-fed. The foals will have a lower risk of getting DOD and contracted tendons. This process of creep feeding foals also makes it easier on the mare.

For the first three months of a foal’s life you should feed one pound of creep feed per month of age if the mare is producing a normal amount of milk for the foal. The amount of feed should then be increased to one to one and a half percent of body weight until weaning. The amount of feed should be adjusted according to the desired growth rate and quality of the available hay. The foal should be given enough hay to eat one percent of their body weight each day.

Take a look at the feed you are giving the foal and check its contents. The proper nutrition for a growing foal is twenty-six percent protein and ten percent fat with a high-quality milk protein and balanced levels of any required nutrients.

At one month old you should start feeding pellets and gradually increase the amount until the foal is eating about two pounds each day. Until the foal is weaned you should decrease the amount of milk replacer. Continue feeding pellets at two pounds each day after weaning and add a feed that is specifically formulated for the growing horse. When you add in the new feed you also need to start reducing the amount of pellets you feed so as not to overfeed the foal. The total amount of feed you give the foal should be equal to one percent to 1.75 percent of their body weight after weaning is complete. Hay should be given to the foal at one percent of their body weight.

Roger Bourdon has written a number of books dedicated to horseback riding, horses and the health of horses. His site www.anyhorsebackriding.com is dedicated to lovers of horses. It contains plenty of free information in newsletters, articles and contains loads of resources all about horses. Products such as books and DVD’s are also available for purchase

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The Mystique Of Arabian Horses

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007
By Samantha Davis Few breeds of horse have captured the imagination like the Arabian horse has. Since the dawn of history, Arabian horses have inspired and influenced many people. In the days of early history, Arabian horses were prized as warhorses and mounts for royalty. The Old Testament in the...

[[ continued at ... HorseLvr.com ]]

The Complete Beginners Guide To Keeping Snakes

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007

By Richard Adams

The beauty of keeping reptiles is that once you’ve set up their caging requirements and learned a few basic skills, there are many species that can be safely and efficiently kept within the home and should live out a full, healthy life.

Fortunately the vast majority of the suitable snakes one might choose to keep, such as corn snakes, king snakes or milk snakes, require very little special treatment and soon become very low maintenace captives.

Quiet, well-behaved, not requiring regular walks and virtually scent-free whilst being unusual and fascinating, snakes can be an ideal pet for today’s ever-busy lifestyle.

At it’s simplest, a glass fish tank with a specially-sold reptile hood or one of the specially made reptile cages (such as those available from www.petsmart.com) may be used, and these are often available for sale second hand in local papers.

Wooden cages should be avoided unless they are treated so as to avoid any spillage from the water bowl (many snakes like to bathe) and ventilation should be good as moist cages often lead to skin complaints or respiratory problems.

A length of around 30-45 cm is suitable for a hatchling snake whilst an adult will require a length of 60-90 cm so it can stretch out.

The cage should be furnished with one of the reptile-safe substrates such as beech chippings or corn cob granules and should be placed 1/3 - 1/2 over a safe, specially-sold, low-wattage heat mat to gently warm the substrate for the snake.

These cost just pennies to run each day and generate a gentle background warmth for your pet.

In particularly cold situations such as bad weather, during night-time or in a room which doesn’t warm up appreciably during the day an additional form of heat is recommended, such as a gauze-encased lightbulb, to warm the warmer end of the cage (the “hot spot”) to around 24-26′C.

This temperature should be maintained at one end of the cage throughout the day though this may drop by a few degrees at night without worry of danger to your pet. If using a bulb a thermostat is recommended to enable you to accurately control the temperature and prevent the cage overheating.

A hide should be included as snakes are often quite reclusive and like to hide away for much of the day, showing themselves early in the morning and later in the evening.

This could be a specially-sold reptile hide but I often simply use a box - like an old cereal box - as they’re free and easily replaced when they get dirty.

A solid waterbowl - ideally a terracotta dog bowl - large enough for the snake to submerge itself in (bathing is good for the skin) but difficult to tip over should be filled with fresh water and changed daily as in a warm environment plenty of water is likely to evaporate, and in addition many snakes like to deficate in their water bowl.

And apart from some food you’re now all set up!

As you can see keeping the smaller, more docile snakes *doesn’t* have the break the bank, nor do you these days need to “make do” with substandard products. Companies like ZooMed make high quality, specialist hardware for just this purpose, and make it available for a very reasonable cost.

Now all you need to do is to convince your girlfriend/wife/mother to let you have the snake itself ;-)

Copyright 2006 Richard Adams

Richard Adams is the owner and founder of www.aboutsnakes.com. About Snakes is one of the most popular sources of free reptile information online.

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Bunny Love: Benefits of Rabbits as Pets

Monday, June 25th, 2007

By Philip Nicosia

Are you thinking of adopting a rabbit for a pet? We don’t blame you—rabbits are very cute animals, who can give you many years of affection and amusement.

However, be sure you are ready for the responsibilities of taking care of this animal. While they are certainly easier to manage than dogs, they still require some attention.

For example, rabbits molt four times a year, so be prepared for a little fur on your sofa every few months. They’ll need hay, a litter box, and a cage (clean frequently with white vinegar to remove odors). If you use hay or woodstove pellets for their litter boxes, you can use these to fertilize your garden when it’s time for a litter change.

When you own a rabbit, you need to accept that a little nibbling is part of the territory. Protect electric cords with casings (available at hardware stores) since the poor pets may get quite a shock if they try to test their teeth on them!

You should also be willing to pamper your rabbit with petting and play (rabbits get depressed if they don’t get enough exercise). Rabbit gyms are available in pet stores. They have tube tunnels that will encourage your pet to run and race, even if you can’t let him out in the garden. Those tube tunnels will also make an interesting conversation piece for your guests—talk about the “new” form of “installation art”!

Not all veterinarians are trained to take care of rabbits, who are considered “exotic pets”/ You may need to shop around and call various clinics, which are usually listed in the phone directory. The pet store may also refer you to veterinarians. .

And finally, if you have children, do talk to your pediatrician first before buying a rabbit. The doctor is in the best position to tell you whether your child has any allergies, asthma problems or other health concerns that may be aggravated by rabbit fur. It’s better to be safe than sorry!

But these sacrifices are nothing compared to the benefits of having a pet rabbit. For one thing, your pet will inspire you to change your diet—since you have to keep a supply of fresh vegetables for him, you might as well make yourself a salad! Recent studies also reveal that owning a pet significantly reduces blood pressure and can even help with depression.

You don’t need to take rabbits for a walk, or worry about the inconvenience of walking around with a “pooper scooper”. Just let him out in the early morning or dusk, and watch him play while you enjoy a cup of coffee.

Nor do you have to worry about your rabbits disrupting the neighbors. They don’t bark or meow, and the “loudest” they ever get is the patter of their feet on the floor. That makes them ideal pets for apartment dwellers.

Rabbits are also ideal pets for the elderly, who may not have the energy to take care of a very large animal. They love being petted and are the ideal “lap pets”.

Resources.eu.com is an online resource centre covering many topics including animals and rabbits.

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Introduction to the Pet Chinchilla

Monday, June 25th, 2007

By Paul Spooner

Becoming more and more popular as a pet, the chinchilla, with its timid and gentle nature, big black eyes, large round ears, long whiskers, long bushy tail and the finest and densest fur of any animal in the World is often described as the nearest thing to a real life cuddly toy. Chinchillas make ideal pets, they are very clean, rarely bite unless frightened and with a little effort and patience are easy to tame. They are also hardy and quite simple to care for provided a few basic rules are followed, the most important of which is correct diet. In the wild chinchillas are ground dwelling animals living in crevices in rocks and belong to the group of animals known as ‘rock hoppers’.

They are nocturnal by nature dozing during the day and becoming more active and feeding in the evenings, being nocturnal makes them quite a good pet for someone who is out at school or work during the day as they enjoy the peace and quiet during the day to doze and enjoy their exercise period in the evenings. Being nocturnal they can be quite active and noisy during the night so may not be the ideal pet for the bedroom!

The best location for their cage would be a cooler part of the house away from direct sunshine and radiators.

The chinchilla has the finest fur of any animal in the World, isn’t it strange it should be closely related to the porcupine!

How is the chinchillas fur different from other animal? Animal hair grows from tiny follicles (holes) in the skin, each follicle usually growing one hair, but with chinchillas, they have approximately the same number of follicles, but each hair splits into 50-90 hairs giving the chinchilla its beautiful, fine silky, dense fur and because the fur is so fine and dense no parasites (fleas or lice) can live in it.

Responsibilities attached to chinchilla ownership;

Fresh pellets( not a mix!), hay and water need to be supplied daily

A daily dustbath is essential to keep their fur in good condition.

Chinchillas are very intelligent and inquisitive, they get attached to their owners so you should be prepared to spend a little time with them every day.

They are very clean animals with little odour but need to be cleaned out regularly.

Chinchillas are rodents with continuously growing teeth, it is in their nature to spend much of their time gnawing, a continuous supply of correct materials should be supplied for this purpose.

Treats and titbits should be fed sparingly, their digestive system has evolved to deal with a very basic diet, rich foods can cause problems.

Chinchillas enjoy raisins and if used in moderation, two or three a day, do not seem to cause any problems.

Another unusual factor with chinchillas is their long life span, the average being ten to twelve years the documented record being twenty two years.

For further information visit our website at

Paul Spooner Chinchillas, Cages & Accessories

Paul Spooner has been a breeder and judge of chinchillas for almost 20 years

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Do You Have A Dog…Then You Must Read This

Monday, June 25th, 2007

I have three dogs, and this type of information is always important for us to know. And, to share it twice is better than not at all!

grapes make raisins.. i love raisins
Grapes…They Make Raisins!

This warning has been posted by me before, but, I would like to re-post it because I think it is that important!

FYI…A warning about raisins and grapes. Not the first time I’ve heard this…but just in case you didn’t know…. Read the whole article here

Healthy Dog & Cat Food
All Natural Healthy Premium
Pet Food From Pet Expert
Dr. Jane Bicks
Premium Cat & Dog Food - Here


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