HART-Empire Network II - Pet Related Channel

PetLvr.com - [The Blog] Is 2-Years Old Today!

Here are some songs that you can play while you are reading this post … There’s something for everybody!

* The Arrogant Worms - The Happy Birthday Song
[See post to listen to audio]

* The Beatles - Birthday
[See post to listen to audio]

* Patsy Cline - Happy Birthday, Baby
[See post to listen to audio]

* Sugarcubes - Birthday
[See post to listen to audio]

* Uriah Heep - The Magician’s Birthday
[See post to listen to audio]

NOTE: If you have a Wordpress blog and wish to include this neat little mp3 player inside YOUR blog, go get the Audio-Player Plugin from Martin Laine

News and Tidbits

My first post is .. www.petlvr.com/blog/2005/05/greetings-earthlings/ … on May 31, 2005 … where I said ..

It is May 31, 2005 and I’ve finally decided to add a Blog to our website. From my past experience of blogs, I can honestly say I have not been a fan of them. I can’t understand why people have them. I can’t understand why people read them. And I can’t understand why businesses would want to include them in their websites!

But, I have decided that it is now time to change the world as we know it. I will create not only the most unique Blog in the world, it will also be the most creative, funny and yet, informative Blog ever achieved in existence!
“First ze internet .. zen ze vorld!!

Our 1449th Post was on May 31, 2006 with our “Happy 1st Birthday - PetLvr.com - [The Blog]” Post

This is our 2668th Post today May 31, 2007 and titled “Happy 2nd Birthday - PetLvr.com - [The Blog]“. I just copied the song songs once again

Activity During The Month Of May 2007

It’s fitting that this blog has reached its second complete year of blog entries. My ISP#1 hosts this blog, and a few other domain aliases that are all part of a mega site at Blacksun.ca .. out of Saskatchewan, Canada. They have really been good to me, and reliable and has great support. I have been using them since .. (um.. 2001?) I can’t recall actually without checking my credit card statements or Income Tax Returns. But last year - the costs were getting too much for me, and I split my resources between Blacksun (ISP#1) and another reseller Pro account (ISP#2). Having the reseller account enabled the HART-Empire Network to grow in size and domain numbers. For ISP#1 .. I downgraded to a more manageable plan.

Well .. for the Month of May 2007 … I have exceeded my allotted mega bandwidth limit for this site for the first time .. which was 15GB .. and by a whopping DOUBLE AMOUNT! >> Traffic has officially exceeded 30GB

Yes .. I have slowed down on about 5 blogs in the past 10 days BECAUSE of popularity .. not because of how busy I am! Although, I am really busy still and should be back to normal after June 15th.

Notice Given: Changes Are A Comin’

I’ve documented this on HART-Empire.com blog (click the above heading) .. and effective tomorrow, June 1st, 2007 I am moving 100% of my accounts with ISP#1 and ISP#2 to a new ISP#3 .. MidPhase

Here is how it will be going:

* I will be moving all 36 of my blogs from ISP#2 to ISP#3 first and testing will be done. This will not affect PetLvr.com. I do not foresee any problems with the move. Notice has been given, and I have to be moved by June 28, 2007

* PetLvr.com, CorydonClock.com, PapillonLvr.com, 1800HART.com, HARTandYVONNE.com (unfortunately) share the same MySQL database and all have blogs in ../root/blog/ format .. and I will be firstly segregating these blogs into individual MySQL databases .. and secondly, considering moving these 5 blogs to the root folders of each domain. My renewal is at July 15, 2007 but I hope to be out before the end of June 2007.

* I would just like to say that officially, all blog network news regarding the move will be occurring on HART-Empire.com blog. So, if this feed is down in the month of June - please look there first before Emailing me! I will be keeping everyone informed on a blog by blog basis of the major moves as it happens.

Take care and Hope to be around on my 3rd Blogging Birthday!
HART (1-800-HART)
Winnipeg, Manitoba

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By Kathie Freeman

No one wants to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in furnishings only to see them ripped to shreds by an overzealous pet, however beloved. To many people the obvious answer is to have their cats declawed, but it this really a reasonable alternative?

Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it is neither simple or painless. Most people aren’t aware that it’s not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your cat can’t tell you it still hurts.

This doesn’t mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes, or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of then declawed, and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.

1. Give them what they want.

Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it’s a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It’s instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.

If that’s what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach.

Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.

Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat’s favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.

2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.

Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no’s. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it!

Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.

As long as we’re on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won’t be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.

3. Trim the claws.

It’s not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.

4. Claw caps.

These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I’ve never tried them myself, but many people report good results.

Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousand of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.

Copyright 2005

Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey. For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie’s Stories and Tails at home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/

This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source information is included.

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By Rena Murray

Does your dog engage in seemingly sweet, subtle, manipulative behavior such as nudging you for affection, forcing a ball in your lap, mouthing your hand, or pawing you when you sit on the couch? Or does he display more of an insistent, aggression dog dominance when commanding your attention?

In either event, you have a dog dominance behavior problem. Your dog seeks to control and manipulate you, and it will not become so cute over time. These dog behaviors can lead to demands that drive friends away, prevent your children from hearing the serious message you are trying to tell them, make someone trip and fall, lead to nipping or biting, and more. It is neither pleasant nor safe.

So then, how do you make Fido stop? What can you do to assert your authority and gain your leadership position over this dog dominance behavior?

First, always make your dog sit or lie down, a submissive posture, for a treat, food, or prior to going out for a walk. Make the dog wait until he is calm for ANYTHING … You will soon thank yourself!

Your dog should ALWAYS walk beside or behind you when on his daily outing, never in the lead. Remember the Leader-Follower Rule. Note how calm a dog is when following an owner, and how on edge he is when he is in front in the control position.

To gain your dog’s full respect, your comportment and attitude must command that respect. One aid to help you exude authority in a manner the dog actually senses and smells, is your intensely positive FOCUS. Stand tall and concentrate on something that makes you feel very proud.

I think about a very unruly dog I once trained on and off leash, and the look on the owner’s face when he arrived some weeks later. As he came through the wide opened doorway, upon seeing the previously wild dog seated calmly behind my friend, he exclaimed: “This cannot be the same dog!” That makes me smile, fill my lungs, and thrust my head up and shoulders square with powerful inner assurance!

Another dog training tip: If your dog is lying down in your path but not sound asleep, do NOT step over him or go around him. Instead, nudge him gently with your foot, tell him to move, or get his attention some other appropriate fashion. He has to move for you, NOT you for him! He will soon understand this without your having to do anything. Then, like my Border Collie, he will just get up and move out of the way when he senses you need to pass. Otherwise, he begins to feel in control and may also become a safety hazard, rising unexpectedly as you step over and causing you to fall.

As much fun as you may have with it, roughhousing and growly games with your dog are certainly not recommended — especially not with young ones who have not yet learned proper relationship boundaries and protocols. Note that even older dogs can gravitate from play to serious control actions, too. I have received and seen too many accidental bites and worked with too many unbalanced dogs as a result of this! I even have a friend whose three-year-old Dalmatian had to be put down after a pattern of roughhousing with her little brother. It reached the point that the dog carried the rough control into the house, not playing any longer — ultimately biting the child and drawing blood more than once! Let dogs roughhouse with each other.

Even games like tug-a-war between you and your dog are not good. Let dogs play it with each other, instead. Yes, that colorful rope you bought just begs you to take one end for your dog’s delight. I watch my two dogs as they play this game … and the victor gains power! It boosts his self-confidence. If you win, you lessen him in his eyes, and if you give in or simply lose hold of the rope, in his mind he has just gained power over you!

No, your dog needs to be secure and confident IN YOU and not feel competitive with you. This way, it is a win-win situation for you and your dog, and YOU can be the TOP DOG – the confident leader of the pack!

Expert Author - Dog Obedience Trainer - Dog Behaviorist, Rena Murray, applies her extensive Dog Behavior Modification and Dog Whisper experience to help both Dog Owners and Pets through self-help Articles on Dog Behavior, Training a Dog, Aggression Dog Dominance, Dog Breeds, Shelter Dogs, Puppy Training, Dog House Training, Dog Training Equipment, and more. Rena also publishes a free e-mail newsletter: PAW PERSUASION POINTERS to help people better understand communication and control of their dogs, to debunk dog training myths, explore right and wrong dog training techniques for specific situations, address destructive dog behavior and excessive / obsessive dog behaviors and other canine issues, from new puppy to old dog. See the PawPersuasion.com website also for a vast array of Dog Products, and learn more with the PAW PERSUASION BLOG.

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By Keith Burke

For some owners who live in a suburban area they find that they have a beautiful dog who likes to go wandering and they escape from the yard by jumping the fence. Unfortunately unless you are able to put up a very high fence or wall that they are unable to jump over then you may be stuck. However there is help at hand today in the form of dog jumping fences which are specifically designed to prevent your dog from getting out of the yard of your property. Below we are going to look at some of the fences that you may want to consider if you are having a problem with your dog jumping over the fence.

1. Hidden Dog Fence

This fence makes use of an electric system which co-ordinates between underground connection which is the transmitter and will then send a small weak radio field to the receiver which is attached to your dog’s collar. Once your dog decides to move within a certain distance of the perimeter of the hidden fence then the underground system sends an electrical shock to the receiver on the collar which should deter the dog from trying to actually jump over the fence and escape. The great thing about these kind of dog jumping fence is that they can easily be installed by the owner rather than having to pay someone to come in and do it for them.

2. Fence Height Extension

You will often find that some hardware stores stock a complete kit or the materials in order that you can increase the height of your fence. Or if you want you can ensure that your fence becomes jump proof by using welded wire leaners which are much more affordable and practical as well as effective solution to this type of problem and are not too difficult to construct. It is important that you use either welded wire or fabric fencing for the leaners as your dog jumping fence instead of barbed wire as this can cause injury to your pet.

Above we have provided you with two effective ways of getting a dog jumping fence which will stop your dog straying but will not harm them in any way.

If you would like to learn more about how to stop your dog from jumping the fence, potty training, digging and more. Visit our website at dog-training-stuff.com

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I just took Maxxie and Sophie out back for a quick romp along the creek .. (they’re our two Papillon dogs) .. and thought to myself .. “Geez .. they look so cute running around like that! I wish I had a video camera!“.

Fortunately .. many other Papillon dog owners out there DO have video cameras .. and provide us with some GREAT entertainment and joy from their uploading and sharing videos of their pets on YouTube …

PS: I don’t understand why people would DISABLE Embedding their videos of their pets over there .. If you know why - please enlighten me!

Here We Go! Some Papillon Dog Videos!

Soxie, my papillon, loves the snow!

Soxie Sue was having fun running around in the snow

Papillon dog video - crazy and lovable Sophie

What can I say? We love our little stinker

The Dog - Papillon

Ellie Running

A short clip of Ellie running after a ball

Run in a large park

She runs fast!

Papillon Dog Show

Best male class at the international dogshow february 2007 in Norway

Fun with leaves 2: The tasty Seashell - chase only

Dog chasing leash

This is what we do for entertainment in Indiana. *sigh*

Cosmo on the bed

Cosmo being crazy and running around in circles on the bed.

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By Shawn Messonnier

Unlike people and dogs, cats are true carnivores. They do not have a specific requirement for carbohydrates in their diets. They must, however, have large amounts of animal protein in the diet or they can suffer a number of fatal problems such as heart disease and liver failure. Carbohydrates are included in pet foods as an inexpensive source of energy. Digested carbs are used to provide fuel (blood glucose) for people and pets; if the energy is not needed immediately, then the carbs are stored as glycogen in the muscle or liver to be used later. While dogs and people can use protein for energy, this is less efficient. Cats, however, have developed to be able to use protein as their main source of energy. Dry food must contain more carbohydrates than canned food in order to be formed into pellets.

Even though cats need a lot of meat in order to obtain the large amount of protein that they require, feeding only meat is a bad idea. Meat as the sole food is too low in calcium and other vitamins and minerals. However, the ideal food for cats is based upon animal protein as long as it contains adequate amounts of fats, vitamins, and minerals. Even though cats don’t really need carbohydrates in their diet, I don’t think feeding dry food is harmful to most cats as long as it’s a natural diet. Some of my holistic colleagues might disagree, and some do in fact only recommend wet or canned food. In my practice, I’m not quite that stringent. However, there are some cats that I believe should probably not eat dry food as their sole diets. Cats with kidney disease, chronic bladder disease, diabetes, cancer, and heart and liver disease do better in my opinion when eating a wet or can diet.

While a few carbs in the diet won’t hurt most cats, I think the best approach is to find out what is best for your cat. Every pet is different, and each has specific nutritional needs. Work with your veterinarian to determine what food is best for your pet at this stage of his life.

Dr. Shawn Messonnier is the author of 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

www.pettogethers.net/healthypet

www.petcarenaturally.com

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Golden Girl, 140089

“Goldie” is a very sweet, gentle ~13 year old Labrador Retriever who was found stray near the river in Fort Richmond at the end of April- she was wet & smelly & perhaps swam across the river from St. Vital. Without a lost report or ID, we have been unable to return her to her owner. Golden Girl is very calm and healthy for her age. She seems good with cats & dogs & deserves a special retirement home. As an older dog, a very special fee applies to the right home. Fee includes vet exam, vaccine, microchip, 6 weeks of pet insurance & more!

Borus, 140411

Borus is a friendly, laid back ~2.5 year old male who was surrendered by his owner in May due to moving & allergies. Borus likes dogs and with a proper introduction will probably be good with cats, too. Adoption fee of $79.00 includes Borus’ neuter, vaccine, vet exam, 6 weeks of pet insurance, microchip & more!

If you would like to adopt one of these pets, please contact:

Chantal Young
Adoption Coordinator
204.982.3558

The Winnipeg Humane Society
5 Kent Street
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
R2L 1X3
204.982.2021

Email: chantaly@humanesociety.mb.ca

www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca

Where every adoptable dog finds a home and cats get a second chance at life!

Paws in Motion happens Sunday, June 24 at Assiniboine Park- log onto www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca for more info and to obtain a pledge form!

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By Eric Hartwell

It is said while creating the canary, God had taken the same utmost care as he did when creating the earth so as to make it one of its finest creations.

The brightest semblance that a canary exerts is that it is both a wonderful pet to view and wonderful to hear sing. It is always in motion, cheering on its own and seems to have a keen interest in things that it comes across.

Truly speaking, canaries form that breed of bird that has been with men for centuries and its selective breeding has led to various shades and colors. The original wild canaries are mostly a drab greenish-brown color whereas it is well-known that canaries tend to be yellow. But yellowness has been developed by selective breeding. Generally people want canaries mainly for their singing ability. Male canaries are the best singers.

It is nice to see, but to keep a canary there are several steps that should be taken essential for its safe and secure livelihood. As is applicable in cases of other pets, certain conditions are also required so as to make the canary’s life more comfortable.

To begin with care must be taken over of all its basic needs like food dishes and water that ought to be provided in a good state. Dishes tend to absorb moisture and that in turn can promote bacterial growth and cause all kinds of health problems and thus endanger the life of these tiny species. They should also be provided with canary seed mixture and cuttlebone for calcium.

The canary’s cage needs a couple of good perches. Therefore due concern should be paid to style, size, and materials to keep the birds healthy and content.

Generally these birds remain happy in those cages that are large enough so as to enable them to fly at ease from one perch to another. Simply hopping from place to place fails to provide sufficient exercise. To enrich their lifestyle the cages should be at least 24” long by 15” deep by 18” tall. This is the benchmark that is expected and should be maintained before proceeding in any venture to keep canaries. Moreover, some people to let them loose at least once a day.

There are also limitations that should be stringently observed. Since these canaries are one of the most delicate species, care should be taken with windows and mirrors irrespective of their sizes – ensure there is no chance of injury.

There are also chances of harm from other pets. Since nowadays we are accustomed to have multiple pets, care should be taken that other animals are kept at bay. There is a possibility of losing the little creatures if they are allowed to fly free out of their cages without taking precautions. Try to make it a habit to clean the bird’s cage thoroughly once a week including the seed (or pellet) cups, the water container, and the perches.

Eric Hartwell oversees “The World’s Best Homepage” intended to be a user-generated resource where YOUR opinion counts. Anybody can contribute and all are welcomed. Visit us to read, comment upon or share opinions at the worlds best homepage or submit or use content at free content resource.

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By Michael Russell

Birds make great pets, but it requires making a good decision before you take on your new companion. A little knowledge before you make your choice can save you lots of headaches down the road and ensure that you and your new pet will get along just fine in the years to come. Purchasing a bird for a pet doesn’t have to be difficult.

There are birds that a very personable, like cockatiels and lovebirds, birds that talk, like parrots and mynah birds, those that sing, like canaries and those that are fun to watch, like finches.

Some of these traits cross over. For instance, male cockatiels can learn to talk and whistle. In fact, a friend of mine had one that liked to ask him, “Where’s my baby?” and even whistle the theme to the Andy Griffith show.

If you like smaller birds, you might go for finches, lovebirds or parakeets. If you are not intimidated by large birds, a parrot, macaw, cockatoo or conure might make a good companion.

If you are on a budget, get a Budgie, which is a Parakeet. They are not only affordable, but they make great pets for kids. Most of them are beautifully colored and they can be very affectionate if you spend time with them. Some even learn to talk.

If you want something more exotic and showy, try a large Parrot. They can learn to talk and do tricks and they love to show off. These brightly colored birds can also be very affectionate once you have earned their trust.

Certainly, this is not an all inclusive list of birds that make good pets. Some people even keep doves and pigeons, among others. One thing you don’t want to do is make a wild bird a pet. They don’t adapt well, they don’t take well to humans and they may carry diseases.

Typically, you can figure the bigger the bird, the bigger the mess. Birds can be messy because they get their food all over the place, especially when they are breaking shells from nuts and seeds. But it’s worth it. You can get supplies to help reduce this undesirable mess.

Don’t be in a hurry when you go shopping for your bird. Plan on spending some time looking at several birds. You will soon discover they have different personalities. If you are a laid back person, you might want a laid back bird. If you are outgoing, you might want the one that is proactive and runs up to greet you as you approach the cage.

Remember, it’s cute to have a bird that talks, but they do not come with ‘on and off’ switches. If you are not prepared for a noisy bird, don’t get a parrot or a cockatoo. Certainly you can usually quiet them temporarily by putting a cover over their cage or putting them in a dark room, but this is not fair. Understand what you are getting into before you make a purchase or adopt your new friend.

Whichever bird you decide is right for you as a pet, be fair and make sure you are going to be dedicated to giving your new friend a happy home. Birds like these enjoy attention and need proper care. If you take good care of them, you may be companions with them for decades, so be prepared to take on the responsibility.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Birds

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By Chris Robertson

With a little imagination and very little effort, you can transform your backyard into a natural habitat for birds. Whether you’re an avid birdwatcher, or simply want to invite nature a little closer to your home, birdfeeders put down the welcome mat for our avian friends.

According to the Audubon Society (www.audubon.org), a bird feeder comes in one of four basic designs. Ground feeders are flat and open, have a screened bottom, and rest off the ground and should be situated ten feet from nearby trees or bushes so that birds can fly away from any predators. Ground feeders can be made squirrel proof by utilizing wire mesh over the bird feeder.

Tube birdfeeders are cylindrical in shape and typically have openings that allow birds to access the seeds. They should be hung off the ground and, for maximum enjoyment, near a window so that family members can witness the wild birds that come to visit.

Suet and hopper bird feeders are typically shaped like houses. A suet bird feeder, made for wild birds that peck at the seed mixed into the suet, is usually hung, while a hopper bird feeder can either be hung or placed on a post for easy access by wild birds. A hopper bird feeder contains a large quantity of seed, which is released when the wild bird steps on the feeder trigger. Hopper birdfeeders attract both small and large birds, including the cardinal.

Unlike the tube and hopper birdfeeders, the thistle bird feeder is designed with very small holes, allowing only small-beaked finches to access the food. Thistle birdfeeders should be hung, and can be made squirrel proof.

The Audubon Society also provides helpful tips on making your backyard friendly to hummingbirds by populating it with humming bird feeders. They suggest that you use several humming bird feeders and fill each with sugar water, being careful to avoid using red food coloring and honey. In addition, you should change the solution in the humming bird feeder weekly, or more often in hot weather.

It is certainly possible to make your own bird feeders, but there are several great birdfeeders available on the market, including those made by Droll Yankee, Opus, Woodllink, and Duncraft.

To get the most out of your bird watching experience, the Audubon Society suggests that you utilize several different types of bird feeders and that you place them at various heights and locations. In this way, you will attract a wide variety of wild birds. In addition, be sure that your efforts to create a backyard habitat don’t harm the birds you are trying to attract. Keep birdfeeders three feet away from windows to avoid collisions, and make sure to keep your cat indoors.

Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies on the web. Visit this Pets and Supplies Website and Majon’s Pets and Supplies directory.

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