Archive for March, 2007

ACL Repair In The Dog: An Inside Look At a Knee Surgery

Saturday, March 31st, 2007

ACL Surgery and Information About Anterior Cruciate Surgery In The Dog

ACL surgery in a dog is commonly done in veterinary practice. Surgical repair of a torn anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) in a dog actually does nothing to the actual ligament. An artificial suture or cord is placed alongside the joint as if to “fool” the knee joint and permit it to move in a normal fashion. There are a number of methods and materials used to repair a knee after a torn ACL injury. Presented here is one such case.

This patient is an eight year old, slightly overweight retriever named Buster who began limping on a rear leg one month ago. Recently, while chasing a Frisbee, he cried out in pain and began to hold the leg up and didn’t get much better after three days. When the owners finally brought him in to be examined the doctor noted a slipping motion in the right knee. Instead of moving like a hinge, the leg just below the knee would actually slide forward and backward. This abnormal motion is typical of a torn ACL, anterior cruciate ligament. Another new procedure is called the TIBEAL PLATEAU LEVELING OSTEOTOMY or TPLO surgery. There will be more about this procedure presented here soon.

“Buster has a torn Anterior Cruciate Ligament” the doctor said. “The best way to get him back to full function would be to do a surgical procedure where we place an artificial ligament along the side of the knee joint; we don’t try to fix the torn ligament because that particular one just won’t heal properly. So we fool the knee into thinking that there is a ligament and after a few weeks of confinement your dog can begin using the leg properly.”

“And what if we didn’t do the surgery right now, Doctor, can we wait a few months?” the owner asked.

The doctor responded that the dog probably already has some arthritic changes in the joint since it had been limping for about a month. The ligament had stretched and and the joint had been unstable until finally the ligament tore completely. Any time a joint becomes unstable pathologic changes begin and can progress to the point where permanent damage is done. “I will be able to see some arthritic changes already during surgery so waiting longer to do the corrective surgery would not be in the dog’s best interest…and the results from surgery would be less rewarding” said the doctor.

Come with the doctor and view Buster’s surgery. Oh, and please don’t touch anything! The surgical area needs to be completely sterile…


Post operative care for a dog with a torn Anterior Cruciate Ligament needs to be carried out in accordance with the veterinarian’s instructions. Leash walking for up to six weeks may be a requirement in order to allow the necessary healing to be well established before the dog places any real stress in the knee joint. The suture material that the surgeon selects to take over the work of the damaged ACL needs to have a supporting deposition of fibrous tissue which will help stabilize toe knee so that no slippage (called a “drawer slip”) of the femur occurs over the tibia. Slow return to normal may take as long as six months and even longer for older, overweight or large breeds of dogs.

An incision is made in the lateral side of the knee joint. Just below the kneecap, at the top of the tibia where the patellar tendon inserts on the tibia, a hole is drilled through the bone. Heavy sutures will be passed through this hole as an anchor point for the new artificial tendon.

In this view of the opened knee joint the arrow points to the remnant of the torn anterior cruciate ligament. Another arrow points to the rough ridge of bony arthritis that has built up. The surgeon is looking for any other damage such as a torn meniscus which can create further arthritis.

Here the needle and suture material has just been passed through the hole in the front of the tibia bone. The next step is to pass the suture material behind the knee and around another anchor point. The heavy suture material will serve as a new ligament and stabilize the knee.

The large needle is being passed behind a small bone (called a fabella) behind the knee. The needle helps the surgeon pass the suture behind the fabella as an anchor point. The tibial tuberosity is the other anchor point for the suture material (which takes the place of the original cruciate ligament).

In this view we see the heavy suture material being drawn tight and a knot tied. This suture will act as a new ligament, essentially fooling the knee into thinking there is still an original ligament present. Now the knee is stable again and there is much less risk of additional arthritis.

The joint capsule is closed and the deeper tissues are sutured together. Then the skin is closed and the incision area is cleaned up. There is surprisingly little bleeding in this procedure. Sutures are removed in 8 to 10 days.


Your veterinarian may suggest in certain cases that a TPLO (Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy) procedure be done where the tibial bone is precisely cut and slightly rotated downward, then held in place with screws and a special plate, until healing occurs. In large breeds and overweight dogs, the TPLO procedure may be advisable. Special training will be required for any veterinarian to be able to properly perform the TPLO procedure.

Be sure to tell other pet lovers about ThePetCenter.com

View this page to see a more complete presentation of an ACL surgery

E-mail a friend who might be interested in viewing this page.

~~~~~~~~~~

SOURCE: ThePetCenter.com
“The Internet Animal Hospital”

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Update On Recall Of Pet Food - Includes Feline Diet Hill’s

Friday, March 30th, 2007

Cat Premium FoodMar 30, 2007 Recall Feline Diet Hill’s

More here at Hill’s.

The pet food recall has now widened to include at least one brand of dry food.  According to the Fox News, Hills Pet Nutrition recalled one of its brands of dry cat kibble for fear it contained melamine, the same toxin that forced Menu Foods to pull “cuts and gravy” products from shelves across the continent.

It is a very specific type of food that is called Prescription Diet m/d Feline Dry food.  The company says that it isn’t taking any chances after melamine, a chemical used as a fertilizer in Asia and also to make plastic kitchenware, was identified as the likely culprit in the Menu Foods recall - one of the largest of its kind ever in North America.

Premium Cat & Dog Food - Here

***

“Hill’s is taking this precautionary action because during a two-month period in early 2007, wheat gluten for this product was provided by a company that also supplied wheat gluten to Menu Foods,” the company said in a statement on its website.
“U.S. Food and Drug Administration tests of wheat gluten samples from this period show the presence of a small amount of melamine.”  The recalled food represents less than 0.5 per cent of all Hill’s products, the company said.

***

The company adds: This is the only product Hill’s currently sells in the United States and Canada that contains wheat gluten from any supplier. No other Hill’s Prescription Diet or Science Diet products are affected by this voluntary recall. Hill’s Science Diet Savory Cuts Feline canned cat foods, manufactured by Menu Foods, were previously withdrawn from the market as a precaution. Together with this earlier withdrawal, less than 1% of all Hill’s products have been affected.
The voluntary recall of Hill’s Prescription Diet m/d Feline dry food involves discontinuation of all retail sales and product retrieval from sellers. This recall does not include Prescription Diet m/d Feline canned food which contains no wheat gluten.
More here at Hill’s.

Re: National Ledger News
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Newsletter from Iams: P&G Pet Care Update on Menu Foods Recall

Friday, March 30th, 2007

P&G Pet Care Update on Menu Foods Recall


P&G Pet Care Update

March 30, 2007

Dear Consumer:

As promised, we are continuing to keep you updated on the Menu Foods recall.

We know the Menu Foods recall has caused concern, frustration and anger among many pet lovers, including many of our own employees and their families. We want you to know that we care deeply, and we continue to take action on your behalf.

We want to comment on the new announcement today (Friday, March 30, 2007) by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) that they have found a substance called melamine in the wheat gluten of recalled products, and not the aminopterin, as earlier suspected by the New York Foods Laboratory.

We can reassure you:

First, there is no melamine or aminopterin in any of our Iams and Eukanuba dry pet foods on store shelves.

In fact, Iams and Eukanuba dry pet foods to DO NOT contain wheat gluten. Our dry dog and cat foods are made exclusively by P&G Pet Care and not by Menu Foods.

Pet owners can feel safe and confident in feeding all Iams and Eukanuba dry foods, as well as any wet foods that are not on the Menu Foods recall list. Click here to see the specific list of recalled wet pouch and canned products.

We want to review the key actions we’ve taken:

* We immediately worked with retailers to remove from store shelves the small number of our wet pouch and canned products affected by the Menu Foods recall.

* We immediately suspended production of all our foods manufactured at the affected Menu Foods Emporia, Kansas plant.

* We have shared all of our data and continue to cooperate fully with FDA, which is leading this important investigation.

* A task force of prominent North American veterinary health care experts, convened by Iams to review the recall, recently agreed: “Veterinarians and pet owners should feel safe recommending and feeding Iams and Eukanuba dry foods.”

We want to stress again that you can confidently feed all of your pets any of our dry foods, as well as the wet foods not affected by the Menu Foods recall. If you have any questions about the recalled products, please click here to see the specific list of recalled wet pouch and canned products.

P&G Pet Care is deeply committed to pet well-being and our top priority is to help you care for your dog and cat family members. We will continue to provide you with meaningful updates. If you have additional questions, not answered on our Web site FAQs, please call us at 1-800-882-1591.

Copyright © 2007 The Iams Company. All rights reserved.

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More On Recall of Contaminted Pet Foods

Thursday, March 29th, 2007

Re: Recall of contaminated Pet Foods

Dear Trilogy Field Representative –

Premium Cat & Dog Food - Here

By now, you are probably familiar with the extensive national recall of many brands of pet foods. Sadly, several dogs and cats have been sickened, and a few have died as a result of eating contaminated food. This is a tragic event, and our hearts go out to the families who are dealing with the heartache of the situation.

We want to reassure you that none of HealthyPetNet’s products are affected by this recall. At present, authorities believe the illnesses to be caused by contaminated wheat gluten. As you already know, none of HealthyPetNet’s products include wheat gluten or wheat products of any kind.

We ask that you convey this information to your customers, should they have any questions about the safety of our products.

Premium Cat & Dog Food - Here

Trilogy International, Inc.

Does Your Dog Get The Right Amount Of Exercise?

Thursday, March 29th, 2007

Does Your Dog Get The Right Amount Of Exercise?

By: Matthew Homfray

For most people, exercising a dog consists of a trip to the park for a run around. In some cases this might suffice, but responsible owners should be aware of the quantity and quality of exercise that their dog needs to maintain optimum health. Ask yourself the following questions.

1) How often does your dog get exercised?

(Read this article …)

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Helpful Thoughts on Owning and Boarding Your First Horse

Thursday, March 29th, 2007

Helpful Thoughts on Owning and Boarding Your First Horse

By Carolyn McFann

Having a horse is fun, but a major responsibility, so be thorough on your research of barns to board it at. It pays to choose a place that is close to where you live, has facilities that are well maintained and most importantly, gives its horses proper care and nutrition. Each barn has its own atmosphere, is it one you can live with? If you want to participate in horse shows, it may be a good idea to choose a barn that frequents the kinds of shows you want to be in. If you live in a cold climate, make sure the barn has a large indoor arena for winter riding.

Do you ride English or Western? If English is your thing, then make sure your barn has jumps available, and/or a dressage ring. I ride English, and my barn had a top show trainer in it, so if I needed to prepare for a show, he was there to critique my riding during lessons. I liked boarding my horse at a place with a competent, experienced trainer, one that took the time to explain the exercises and gave me quality instruction. Since I spent most of my money at this sport, I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right.

If you ride Western, make sure there are trails to ride on nearby your barn. And again, find a barn that has a trainer suited to your style of riding in order to get the proper instruction. Once you find a barn you like, whatever style you ride, spend time taking lessons there before buying a horse, just to get a feel of the place. If you haven’t found a horse yet, trainers can assist you in looking. Ask around, and tell them how much you are looking to spend on your first horse. Another great way to find a horse is during the summer, many young horse owners are getting ready to go off to college and need to sell their animal fast. This is a good bargaining time, if the seller is motivated, you may talk the price down on his horse. Have them throw in the tack (saddle, bridle, etc) too, as part of the bargain. When I sold my horse to go to college, I gladly gave the buyers (a well maintained show barn) all my tack since I knew he was going to be in good hands. It pays to ask about the tack, to save on money, since having a horse is very expensive any way you look at it.

Make sure the horse is healthy before committing to buying it. This is incredibly important. Make sure to have a vet look it over, and tell you what condition he is in. Are his legs sound? Has he ever been lame? Has he had all his shots, and is he disease-free? Also, make sure there are no growths on his ears. A friend of mine bought an expensive show horse, only to find out he had skin cancer on one of his ears. One of his ears had to be partially removed, it was really sad. Make sure the animal is completely sound and has a personality you can live with.

One way to try out horse ownership is to lease a horse from its owner. Most barns have horses that are up for lease, you can even get a half or quarter lease sometimes. Then, you help with the bills of the horse, but are not fully responsible for it. You work out with the owner, and anyone who may be sharing the lease with you, what days you will ride. That is a great solution if you have limited time, because owning a horse, even when boarded at a show stable, is still very time consuming. You must groom, saddle, ride, unsaddle, wash then clean its feet every time you ride. And, I used to let my horse out into the paddocks and wait for him to have fun kicking up his heels every day, instead of paying extra to have the trainer do it for me. I spent at least four hours every afternoon at my stable since he was my full responsibility, I owned him so his well-being was totally up to me alone. The barn workers fed the horses, mucked stalls and kept the grounds up. I kept the horse clean, healthy and happy, as well as my tack spotlessly maintained.

Keep in mind, horses have other bills that must be paid, such as vet bills (worming, shots, etc) and farrier (horseshoes, hoof trimming, etc). These must be done on a regular schedule and not ignored. Taking good care of your horse’s feet is of major importance so never skimp on cleaning or trimming them. Also, buy shampoo and other grooming products online to save money. If you don’t have a locker in your barn, get a caddy to hold your grooming supplies, and keep it in the back of your car. Leaving it out in the open at the barn invites trouble, in the form of others “borrowing” things and forgetting to put them back, so it’s best to have a locking trunk or keep the caddy in the back of your car.

If you plan to show your horse, ask your barn how much they charge to use their horse trailer. Most barns will haul the horse for you, for the asking, as long as they have enough trailer space for all the horses going to the show. Showing is addictive. Start at a small, local show and see how you like it. Then, if you do well and enjoy yourself, work your way up to bigger shows. Going to a horse show is a enjoyable family event. Many people bring picnics to watch the show as their children ride. If you win a prize, it’s a bonus, but do it for the sheer pleasure of it all. If you show, make sure to wear the appropriate clothing and boots. Advance preparation of both the rider and horse is the key to a successful day of horse showing.

Once you and your horse are settled in and know each other, you will make a good team and build on your experiences together. Bring him treats, talk to him and give kind approval so he learns to trust you. My horse used to whinny whenever he saw me walking towards him. We were buddies and I used to make him carrot cake every New Year’s Day (he was a Thoroughbred and all registered Thoroughbreds share the birthday of January first, whether they were born on that day or not). He plowed through that cake in minutes flat and looked for more. We were a great team and I’ll never forget him. These little things make the relationship you have with your horse all the more special. Owning a horse is a special privelege so enjoy each and every day with him. Grow together, learn new things, and both your lives will be enriched and happy. I highly recommend it.

Carolyn McFann is a scientific and nature illustrator, who owns Two Purring Cats Design Studio, which can be seen at: www.cafepress.com/twopurringcats Educated at the Rochester Institute of Technology in New York, Carolyn is a seasoned, well-traveled artist, writer and photographer. She has lived and worked in Cancun, Mexico, among other interesting professional assignments in other countries. Clients include nature parks, museums, scientists, corporations and private owners. She has been the subject of tv interviews, articles for newspapers and other popular media venues.

Article Source: EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carolyn_McFann

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How To Clean Your Aquarium For A Crystal Clear View

Thursday, March 29th, 2007

How To Clean Your Aquarium For A Crystal Clear View

By: Lee Dobbins

Cleaning your aquarium is vital not only for a crystal clear view inside, but also for the health of your fish. for proper aquarium maintenance, cleaning should be done about once a month and while this might seem like an arduous task, once you have it down to a routine it really won’t take you that long at all.

The first thing you want to do is unplug all be electric gizmos such as the heaters, filters, lights and anything else you have plugged in. Don’t remove your fish from the tank, as it can be very shocking to them and you will not be removing all the water or using soaps or harsh chemicals anyway. in fact, cleaning your aquarium or consists mainly of scrubbing and vacuuming.

While I find it easier to scrub out the tank once I have vacuumed out some of the water, this does have a downside because now you are introducing more algae into the water when there is less water to dilute it and this may not be so good for your fish. So the next two steps can be done in any order you wish.

Vacuuming the aquarium is important because you need to get out all the rotting food and waste at the bottom of the tank as well as change out the water. To vacuum the tank, you’ll need a special gizmo that has a large round tube at one and with plastic tubing coming out. The large round tube goes into the tank and this is what you use as the vacuum the other hand is into either the sink or a bucket and this is where the water comes out. to start siphoning the water and vacuuming you have to create a siphon with the vacuum tube and I usually do this by dipping it in some of the water and then holding upside down to get the water flowing than putting it right back into the water to continue the suction. Once you’ve accomplished this, you simply go about vacuuming the bottom by putting the tube on top of the gravel. I like to stir the gravel up a bit to get all of the debris that has settled down into it. Be careful not to get too carried away though as you only want to siphon out about 25% of the water

Once you have done the vacuuming, it’s time to do the scrubbing. you’ll need to have a special sponge that is made for scrubbing algae and if you have an acrylic tank be sure to get one that will not damage the acrylic. .You want to scrub all the algae off the sides of the tank and any decorations in the tank as well as the filters and tubes for the filters and heaters and whatnot that go down into the tank.

Now you need to replace the water. Be sure to use dechlorinated water that is at the same temperature as the water in the tank. Adding water that is too hot or too cold will cause a large fluctuation in the aquarium water temperature which can be harmful to your fish. Be sure to use a water conditioner made specifically for aquariums before adding the water to the tank. This might be a good time to get out your test kit and check the aquarium water to be sure it has the right levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Cleaning your aquarium doesn’t have to be a big job. In fact, you can make it a little easier on yourself by taking care to not overfeed to fish, and by buying a Chinese Algae Eater that will help you scrub the algae that accumulates on the sides of the tank and the decorations. No matter what, however, you will want to periodically change out the water to make sure you are providing the best quality environment for your fish.

Article Source

Lee Dobbins writes for www.fish-tank-guide.com we you can learn more about aquarium care and maintenance.

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Own A Fun Loving, Loveable Beautiful Old English Sheepdog

Thursday, March 29th, 2007

By Ruth Bird

The Old English Sheepdog comes to us from the west of England. It belongs to a working breed of dogs. This breed was bred because there was a need for a strong dog that was capable of fending off the wolves and protecting the herds. By the middle of the nineteenth century these Sheepdogs were used to herd the flocks to the market. Apparently working breed of dogs did not get taxed, but they had to have their tails docked to prove it. This practice continues in modern times with this breed of dog particularily.

The Old English Sheepdog was already recognized by the AKC in 1905.

AKC Ranking: 69

Family: Livestock, Herding

Origin: England

Date of origin: 1800’s

Function: Sheep Herding

Today: Herding Trials

These dogs could be brown, but today are only recognized in grey and white. This dog has a very compact body. This dog became popular as a pet with the media in the mid 1900’s. It is used mostly as a pet or show dog today, and rarely as a working dog.

This is a gently fun loving dog. It is a marvelous family pet and often entertains its family with loveable and funny antics. It is protective of its family members, looking after the children as it would the sheep herd. It is friendly towards strangers, but can be a little headstrong, because of its intelligence. Dog obedience training is very important with this breed.

This dog needs daily play and exercise, preferably a nice long walk. This breed thrives on company so it does not make a good outside pet. It needs brushing regularly otherwise it tends to mat. It has a lifespan of 10 – 12 years.

It has a bear like shuffle and tends to amble along. It has a very pleasing fun loving intelligent expression.

The Old English Sheepdog is great addition to any family.

Ruth is actively involved with the internet, and she finds it very exciting. Her passions are pet health and dog training. She is a wife, a stepmom a dog owner and a business person. She is married for almost 30 years to Chris who has been, and still is, battling the monster MS. Two of her dogs are Certified Therapy Dogs. She is currently working from her home.

Her Home Blog
www.mimfreedom.com/blog

Her Dog Training Page
www.ruthsinformationabout.com/dog-obedience/sitstay/index.html

Her Pet Blog
www.happypetstop.com/blog

Article Source: EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ruth_Bird

Nikki And Friends

Wednesday, March 28th, 2007

Here are some pics to share with you from visiting a few days ago.

Nikki - Dog Therapy

Nikki - Dog Therapy

Nikki - Dog Therapy


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Training Your Dog To Drop At A Distance

Wednesday, March 28th, 2007

Training Your Dog To Drop At A Distance

By: Jimmy Cox

Before you attempt to make your dog drop at a distance, teach her first to drop directly in front of you on the first command and on the first signal.

With the dog on leash, facing you, hold the leash in your left hand (it is presumed, of course, that your dog already knows how to lie down as outlined in The Complete Novice Obedience Course). without moving your body, command “Down!”

Use a quiet tone of voice and follow the command with “Good Girl!” The praise is important! It encourages the dog to obey without leash correction. If one is necessary, it will be more favorably received.

If your dog obeys the first command to lie down, go to your right, circle around in back, and while she is in the down position, pat her. If the command is ignored, quickly stamp on the leash with your right foot to get her down, giving extra praise.

Circle around, pat her, but don’t let her get up until you give her permission. With a small dog, or one that is extra sensitive, tap the leash more gently.

After your dog lies down on voice command, tell her “Sit!” This time raise your right hand (this is the signal used by right-handed people to make the dog lie down) and follow the signal with “Good Girl!” If your dog isn’t down by the time your hand is raised with fingers pointing UP, stamp on the leash or bump the palm of the raised hand against the dog’s nose, with extra praise.

Say “down!” at the same time, then circle around to heel position and pat her while she is lying down. The important things to remember are these: Give the command without body motion; when you use the signal, raise your hand, wait, then make the correction; and whether you use your hand or your foot to get your dog down, give praise!

The way you give the signal is also important. Lift your hand quickly, then lower it slowly while the dog is in the process of going down. If you drop the hand too fast, it will look like the signal to come and your dog could be confused.

When your dog will lie down immediately on a single command, and will do the same when you give the signal, try it without the leash, but stay close to your dog. Give the command or signal once, then follow with praise. The praise can be dropped after the dog has learned to react immediately, but during the teaching, praise should accompany the voice and the hand gesture.

When the leash is off, and the command or signal is ignored, the bump on the nose is an effective correction. Return to heel position each time your dog goes down; pat her or give her a tasty morsel so she will associate something pleasant with the prone position.

Gradually increase the distance you stand away, but only if your dog will drop immediately, on a single command or signal, a distance equal to the length of the leash. With the dog some distance away, the voice now becomes the correction. When the command or signal is ignored, give the second command demandingly.

The ultimate goal for the drop in the distance should be twenty-five to thirty feet, to prepare your dog for drop on recall.

If you still have trouble making your dog lie down at a distance, fasten a long line to her collar and run the line through a ring in the floor, or one placed in the ground. Ask an assistant to hold the end of the line at a distance (or hold the line yourself). Tell your dog “Stay!” Face her, then give the signal or the command to lie down. If she remains sitting, the pull on the line will put her down. Return, make her sit, and give her praise.

Article Source

Finally You Can Master The Art Of Dog Training Obedience! Click Here For A Free Online E-Book: www.dogtrainingobedience.org/

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